The Oberammergau Experience
By Susie Lam, Signature Tours International

Every ten years from May to October, the world beats a path to the quaint little village of Oberammergau, high in the Bavarian Alps. Colorful murals adorn the exterior of charming hotels, restaurants, and shops, and window boxes overflow with geraniums.  But it is the world renowned Passionsspiele, or Passion Play, that visitors are coming to see.  It is the most famous musical drama in the world – a play of epic proportion that has been drawing crowds for centuries.

The play was first presented in 1634 in gratitude to God for sparing most of Oberammergau villagers from the Black Plague.  The folklore is that a local farmer contracted the plague from a neighboring valley and soon his family and about 80 other villagers had died.  The survivors plead with God to stop the plague and spare the rest of the village and vowed that they would stage a religious performance each decade in gratitude.  God answered their prayer and stopped the plague, and they have faithfully kept their pledge, except when a Napoleon or Hitler interfered.

The story line of the play comes directly from the Biblical accounts of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John and depicts Jesus from the time he enters Jerusalem until the resurrection.  Much of the story is sung in opera-fashion, and a full concert orchestra embellishes the drama with a rich musical background.  The Passion Play is a profoundly moving spectacle which compels viewers to ponder the significance of Christ’s death and resurrection.  Even for those who do not understand German, the visual and musical aspects of the play are deeply stirring, but complete translations are provided for foreign guests.

Performances in 2010 will begin with Part I from 2:00 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. and Part 2 from 7:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., with dinner in the intermission.   The open air stage is big enough to hold 700 actors and the centurion’s horse, plus a fifty-voice choir.  A shell covers the 5,000 seat auditorium so visitors are comfortably protected from the elements. There are 16 acts and 34 changes of scenery. Between the acts, there are still-life portrayals of Old Testament events.  For example, a still life portrayal of the angel driving Adam and Eve out of the Garden of Eden precedes the live action of Christ driving the  money-changers out of the temple.  A still-life of Joseph’s brothers selling him into slavery precedes the dramatic depiction of Judas selling Jesus into hands of the high priests.

There are 17 leading actors who are chosen very deliberately nine months before the dress rehearsal by the town priest, mayor and headmaster, along with some of the older men who once played important roles in earlier performances.

Nearly one third of the 5,000 residents of Oberammergau have a direct part in the play. There are 104 speaking parts and about 900 non-speaking parts, including 350 children.  Another 400 or so work behind the scenes as ushers, electricians, tickets-takers, wardrobers, singers and stagehands.

Anyone not born in Oberammergau or who has lived there less than 20 years is automatically excluded from participation.  Living in the neighboring village of Uterammergau, a mile downstream, makes one ineligible. The personal morality of the leading candidates is also scrutinized by the committee.  The leading female roles are those of the Virgin Mary and Mary Magdalene.  For these, a girl has to be single, virtuous, of good reputation, have acting and speaking abilities, and be an Oberammergauerin.

Tickets for the Passion Play season are generally sold out well in advance.  Many attendees come from other countries.  Since the play is a full-day event, some stay one or two nights in a quaint hotel or home in or near the village of Oberammergau and enjoy delicious German meals that are provided as part of their Passion Play package.  They have an opportunity to wander through picturesque village streets surrounded by storybook architect and shop for souvenirs which include hand-carved wooden statues depicting scenes from the play.

All in all, the Oberammergau experience is a rich feat for the soul and spirit.